PW Project Watch

Zenith has launched its new diver watches on the market!

Before discovering these new models, it is important to take a step back, more precisely, to the late 60s, when Le Locle’s Maison produced some diver watches with a strong character. These years are, for Zenith, an important period, also marked by the birth of the famous El Primero which, with its success, partly darkened the diver watches. On the contrary, the 70s are the darkest moment for mechanical watchmaking and for the Maison itself. Following this crisis, Zenith diver watches were no longer produced.

Today, 55 years later, Zenith presents its modern diving models: the Defy Extreme Diver and the Defy Revival A3648.

Born in 1969, the Defy collection included tempo-only models, chronographs and, in fact, diver watches. Thanks to its robustness and impact resistance, the Defy line was synonymous with reliability. It is no coincidence that in the advertisements of the time, the patented case was defined as: ‘the safe of the time’.

Defy Extreme Diver

In the Defy Extreme Diver the reference to the 1969 Defy A3648 is evident.

The 42.5mm angle case is made of titanium, a lightweight metal, but also highly resistant to impact and seawater corrosion. In addition, the case is equipped with a helium discharge valve that guarantees a waterproofness of up to 600 metres.

The dial, black or blue, features a geometric pattern of four-pointed stars. The date indication is located at 3 a.m., an unusual aspect for Zenith which is usually placed between 4 and 5 o’clock.

For better grip during diving, the ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel features grooved edges. The same bezel, matched with the colour of the dial, is engraved and filled with Super-LumiNova. The oversized hands and applied hour indexes feature three different Super-LumiNova pigments with light emissions in blue, green and orange, making it easy to distinguish between functions (hours, minutes and seconds). All these features allow for better readability underwater where light is poor.

The large screwed crown is protected by titanium shoulders on both sides.

An uncommon feature among diving watches, and, not always appreciated by collectors, is the sapphire glass case back. This type of backing allows you to observe the El Primero 3620-SC calibre, a high-frequency automatic movement with a 60-hour power reserve. This version of El Primero features a paramagnetic escapement with non-metallic silicon key components.

The Defy Extreme Diver is accompanied by a three-link titanium bracelet. As well as this type of bracelet, the new Zenith diver watch is available with an FKM rubber strap, or with an extra-long strap designed to be worn over a wetsuit.

Defy Revival A3648

The Defy Revival A3648 features a stainless steel corner case. Compared to the 39mm of the 1969 model, the new A3648 has a diameter of 37mm.

The black and orange theme, characteristic of the A3648, is dominant throughout the clock. The contrast between the matte black dial and the orange hands and minute indexes is evident. The indexes and hands are filled with white Super-LumiNova. The bright tones can also be seen in the orange unidirectional rotating bezel. For this new edition, this bezel was made of sapphire instead of bakelite as in historical models.

Thanks to the 4-metre screwed crown and fourteen-sided steel fixed bezel, the Defy Revival A3648 guarantees a depth of 600 metres, as well as the same waterproofness as 1969. As with most Revival models, Zenith chooses a sapphire crystal back that offers the view of the Elite 670 automatic movement.

Regarding the bracelet, this new version of the Zenith A3648 comes out, like the historic model, with a five-link bracelet equipped with an expanded buckle to allow the watch to be worn over a wetsuit. In the past, this bracelet was produced by the famous company Gay Freres. You should know, however, that in 1969, when it was unveiled, the A3648 could also be accompanied by the iconic skeletonised bracelet from the same company. In fact, in the advertisements and brochures of the time it is possible to see this double configuration.

A consideration of the Revival collection that Zenith has been producing for some years is needed prior to finalising the article. The idea that some people believe that Zenith should focus on new models and not on pieces from the past disagrees with me. First of all, these two new watches show that in the company there is both a vision for the future and a focus on its history. In addition, it should be pointed out that, today, as in the past, Zenith has always produced a few pieces for each model; as a result, its vintage watches and therefore its 60s diver watches are really rare to find nowadays. The purpose of the Revival is just that: to allow young enthusiasts to enjoy these historical models.

Now back to us. Basically, the Defy Extreme Diver and Defy Revival A3648 retain the distinctive design of the 1969 Defy collection: corner case, fixed polygonal steel bezel, unidirectional rotating bezel and orange details. Despite the link to the past, today’s Zenith diver watches feature character and style. It can be said that these two new divers models mark the beginning of a new adventure for today’s Zenith.

Surely, Le Locle’s Maison will be able to amaze everyone even in the field of depth.